So, we went to France. See, my mother-in-law went on her mission to Northern France, and since Thora's parents were visiting their grand-daughter here in the UK, they thought to pop over the Channel to visit her old haunts. I suggested, since we were going through all that trouble to visit the French Republic, we should visit one of the greatest cities in the world (which is to say Paris).
You see, I am, as most of my friends know a Francophile (and a Bonapartist to boot). I have spent my life defending the French language, French people and, most especially, the French military establishment. I have defended them from people who claimed that the Scots hate the French (clearly being unaware the Scottish alliance with the French is what kept Scotland independent for so long). I have defended them from people who claim that the real French flag is white, and against all of the usual slurs against the French people. I have never understood it, but I think it derives from the fact the French government has often disagreed with the policies of the American government. More like though, people are just ignorant. Anyway, suffice it to say that I have long been a lover of the French. I have studied the language, on my own for the most part (since my Hebrew studies didn't leave me much extra time). So, I jumped on the chance to visit France.
It was a splendid experience. I have often heard that the French are arrogant and off-putting of foreigners and especially Americans. I do not believe a word of it. I found the French to be pleasant and friendly, totally lacking the British reserve. The British are unfailingly polite, but not always very open. We had experiences where we were lost in Lille, and a woman took us into her own home, in order that Thora's mother could call her friends. She offered Lydia chocolate and was in general very friendly. I tried to speak French, with a fair amount of success. Nobody commented on my French, and indeed went out of their way to draw me in to conversation. I often had to say to Je ne comprends pas, but all in all we were able to communicate very nicely. In fact, my French got such a workout that I feel that my skills at speaking French have been upgraded from en petit peu (a very little bit) to en peu (a little bit), which is great progress.
In Paris we visited many wonderful things including the Louvre, which was as wonderful as I expected. Of course, of great importance to me was Les Invalides, and especially the Tomb of Napoleon the First, Emperor of the French and King of Italy. As I said before, I am, and long have been, a Bonapartist, for reasons which are difficult for me to articulate. One of the nicest things about visiting France was realizing that I was no longer the only one in a hundred mile radius who thought positive things about Bonaparte. It was an empowering experience (empowerment is a dangerous word, I know, but it was pretty cool all the same).
The other important thing I wish to mention is the visits to the French cathedrals of Notre Dame and Saint Denis, both of which were wonderful and beautiful. It reminded me of my love of the Middle Ages and of the Masons who built these churches. Saint Denis is the resting place of the kings of France, and is a holy place. It was a fascinating place to visit, since it was a monument to monarchy in France, a monarchy which did not end prettily in France, but it was still holy. Charles Martel, Pepin the Short, Louis XIV, and XV are all buried there, as well as Louis XVI and what is left of Louis XVII. Regrettably, Thora wasn't able to be there with me, because Lydia wasn't feeling well, but it was still a wonderful experience.
The trip was all in all wonderful. There were a number of stories which I would share, but which I will leave to Thora, such as being ten feet from the President of the French Republic and the various woes of travel. For myself it suffices me to say that I entered France a Francophile and left it further confirmed in my Francophile-ness. I will continue to defend France with a renewed vigor and from my own experiences. In short-- Vive la France!
I am back online. For those of you who do not read my wife's posts, I received a fine fellowship from The Ohio State University, and so will be studying there. My wife and I are very happy. Thank for everyone's prayers. I should be able back to writing soon. For one thing I have to write that post about my ambivalence towards the SCA, among other things. However, that will have to wait until next time.
Excelsior!
7 comments:
Despite having a strong English background and being a Germanist, I like traveling in France. I'm planning a tour of Medieval Northern France led by Kathy Rimmasch, a French medievalist (she's even going to Kalamazoo this year!) and Flanders expert. You're invited to come, if it ever happens.
Also, belated congrats on OSU! A fellowship isn't bottom of the barrel at all. It's nice to have that confirmation and know you beat out a number of people.
You realize, of course, that your Bonaparteist leanings don't make me feel any worse about by Cromwellian leanings.
I told Zina on Monday that I wished I had a shirt with Cromwell's portrait on it, just to upset the Irish. She wasn't amused, but she conceded the point that liking Cromwell wasn't any different then liking Napoleon.
As for the white flag. Perhaps they're thinking of the Bourbon flag? I don't know. Lots of people on this side of the pond need a kick in the pants, to remember that the nation they're so proud of simply wouldn't be, if it wasn't for France and their white flag.
Understand, that doesn't mean I like France, but I do certainly respect them. Toll roads and a terribly confusing mass transit system keep me from really liking them. It IS a pretty country though.
Well, to be fair, my being a Bonapartist is in spite of being a Hebraist, since the Jews have not had the best time in France throughout the ages (although there was a Golden Age in Provence and Southern France for a little bit--that is where Rashi and the early Kabbalists hail from).
As per the barrel, no it is not. Indeed, I wrote that post after getting rejected from Yale somewhat prematurely. That is the problem with publishing on the Interwebs-- what is said is said. However, thank you for you congratulations. I hope your choices are going well (and I hope you pick one of the close schools).
I am reminded of a poem I once read about Cromwell. The refrain went something like: Lord Protect us from Lord Protectors. It was a fun poem. Matt, if you will forgive me my Bonapartist tendencies than I will forgive your Cromwellian-ness. I would wear a shirt that had Cromwell on it. It be a fair sight better than all those Che shirts (which reminds me. It was elections in France while we were there, and the Communists took a majority in the district where our hotel was. Interesting world we live in).
This is Don, using Barbara's computer.
First time I went to France (35 years ago) as a Francophile, and left a France-hater after two weeks. This time, just the opposite. Maybe the difference is, this time I wasn't a filthy hippie?
Any mass-transit system that includes the TGV (high-speed trains) can't be all bad. I actually liked the Metro, after I got used to it, though they could use more escalotors.
I remember reading somewhere that more than 50% of the bullets fired by Americans during the Revolution came from France. In many ways, we owe our independence to them. And they owe their independence (from Germany) to us. They have recently erected a HUGE "triumphal arch" in the new part of Paris, that looks like nothing so much as an immense, cubical, plastic table, the height of the Church Office Building in Salt Lake City, in honor of the Allied victory in WWII. We didn't visit it, but it's easily visible from the top of the Arc de Triomphe.
England seems to me to be really different from the US, though they speak almost the same language, while France seems much like the US, only in French. Since I'm fluent in French, this doesn't bother me.
As a passionate francophile myself, I love having you around, Avram. It's nice to know that someone is backing me up, even in those moments when I've very nearly come to blows defending my adopted culture. I'm glad you finally made it to Paris, since I've been wanting you to go there since I went. Someday it'll hopefully be my turn again.
Here's a couple pictures, full enough of contrast to be suitably full of revolutionary intent: Cromwell and Napoleon.
More thoughts later.
I'm glad you enjoyed France. I myself also defend France to many people especially in this organization you feel ambivalent towards.
I am very glad you'll be attending Ohio and will be glad to have you back.
Note: My friend, feel no compulsion on account of myself to cling to the SCA. I am your friend first and realize that, like American Democracy, the SCA is not for everyone. I have come to grips with the fact that Manifest Destiny isn't the best thing especially in a Medieval reenactment society.
Okay now feel free to be ambivalent all you like.
Post a Comment